TL;DR
A complete roof inspection covers five zones in a fixed order: surface (shingles, granule loss, blistering), penetrations and flashing (where 90% of leaks actually start), edges and drainage (gutters, fascia, drip edge), the attic side (decking stains, ventilation, daylight), and documentation (timestamped photos per finding). The 25-point checklist is below, written for roofing pros running storm-season inspections and for homeowners who want to know what a real inspection includes before hiring one. The operator's edge: an inspection documented photo-by-photo is simultaneously your sales evidence, the homeowner's insurance file, and the difference between an adjuster nodding and an adjuster arguing.
Every roofer says free inspection. What separates the ones who win the storm season is what happens during it: a fixed route across the roof, a reading or photo at every stop, and a document the homeowner can hand an insurance adjuster. Here is that inspection, zone by zone.
The 25-point checklist, by zone
Zone 1: The field (roof surface)
- 1. Shingle condition overall: curling, cupping, cracked or missing tabs, and the pattern of damage (storm damage clusters directionally; age spreads evenly, and adjusters know the difference).
- 2. Granule loss: check gutters and downspout splash zones for granule piles; bare spots age a shingle years per season.
- 3. Hail strikes: random-pattern bruising with soft spots, marked with chalk and photographed with a reference coin or gauge.
- 4. Blistering and thermal cracking: distinguish manufacturing blisters from hail, because claims die on this confusion.
- 5. Previous repairs: mismatched shingles and mastic smears map the roof's history and its next failure.
- 6. Ridge and hip caps: the highest wind exposure on the roof, and the most commonly cracked.
Zone 2: Penetrations and flashing (where leaks live)
- 7. Pipe boots: cracked neoprene at plumbing stacks is arguably the single most common residential leak source. A $15 part.
- 8. Chimney flashing: step and counter-flashing condition, mortar joints, and the crown.
- 9. Valley condition: open or closed, and whether debris is damming water sideways under shingles.
- 10. Skylights: seals, flashing kit, and glass condition.
- 11. Vents and exhaust caps: seated, sealed, and screened.
- 12. Satellite mounts and solar attachments: every bolt is a hole somebody made; verify each is flashed, not just gooped.
Zone 3: Edges and drainage
- 13. Gutters and downspouts: attachment, pitch, granule load, and whether water exits away from the foundation.
- 14. Drip edge: present and lapped correctly (older roofs commonly lack it entirely).
- 15. Fascia and soffit condition: rot, peeling, and pest entry points.
- 16. Ice dam evidence (northern climates): interior edge staining and gutter deformation tell last winter's story.
Zone 4: The attic side
- 17. Decking stains and moisture: a moisture meter reading beats a flashlight glance.
- 18. Daylight check: light through the deck anywhere except vents is a finding, always.
- 19. Ventilation balance: intake versus exhaust; cooked shingles and winter condensation both start here.
- 20. Insulation condition and depth: matted or wet insulation marks an active or past leak.
- 21. Bathroom and kitchen exhausts: venting outside versus dumping moisture into the attic.
Zone 5: Documentation
- 22. Timestamped photos per finding, wide shot for location plus close-up for condition.
- 23. A roof diagram marking each finding's position.
- 24. Measurements, whether by tape, drone, or satellite report.
- 25. A written summary with repair-versus-replace recommendation and honest urgency ratings, because "monitor this" is a legitimate finding and saying it builds decade-long trust.
the rough share of roof leaks that start at penetrations and flashing rather than the shingle field. Zone 2 is where inspections earn their keep, and where drive-by "inspections" never look.
For homeowners: when and who
Twice yearly (spring and fall) plus after any hail or major wind event, and before buying a house whose roof age is unknown. The free contractor inspection is legitimate and the business model is transparent: the roofer hopes to find billable work, which is fine as long as findings come with photos you can second-opinion. Walk away from anyone who finds catastrophic damage but cannot show it to you, and from anyone who pressures a same-day signature on an insurance claim. For storm claims specifically, your own dated photo file from before the storm is the most valuable document you can own, which is an argument for scheduling that boring spring inspection.
For roofers: the inspection is the funnel
Storm season economics run on inspection volume, and the documented inspection outperforms the eyeball version at every step: the photo file is the adjuster evidence, the roof diagram is the supplement justification, and the honest "your roof has five good years left" builds the review base and the callback list that survives between storms. Load the checklist into your field app as a required form with photo prompts per zone (CompanyCam-style photo documentation exists for exactly this; the full stack is in best apps for contractors), and put instant capture on the front of the funnel: our own RoofMammoth runs satellite measurement on your website so the homeowner requests the inspection with the roof size already attached.
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Frequently asked questions
What does a roof inspection include?
A complete inspection covers five zones: the shingle field (condition, granule loss, hail evidence), penetrations and flashing (pipe boots, chimney, valleys, skylights), edges and drainage (gutters, drip edge, fascia), the attic side (decking moisture, daylight, ventilation), and documentation (timestamped photos, a roof diagram, and a written summary with recommendations). Roughly 25 checkpoints in total.
How much does a roof inspection cost?
Contractor inspections are commonly free, funded by the repair work they surface; that model is legitimate when findings come with photos. Independent inspections with no repair interest run $150 to $400 and make sense for real estate transactions and second opinions on large claims.
How often should a roof be inspected?
Twice a year (spring and fall), after any hail or significant wind event, and before purchasing a home. In hail country, the after-storm inspection with dated photos is also what makes an eventual insurance claim clean instead of contested.
Where do most roof leaks start?
Penetrations and flashing, by a wide margin: cracked pipe boots, failed chimney flashing, debris-dammed valleys, and unflashed mounting bolts. The shingle field gets the attention; zone 2 gets the water. Any inspection that skips the penetrations is a look, not an inspection.
What should roofers document during an inspection?
Every finding as a wide-plus-close photo pair with timestamps, a roof diagram marking positions, measurements, and a written summary with honest urgency ratings. That file is simultaneously the homeowner's insurance evidence, the adjuster's supplement justification, and the trust that turns one inspection into a decade of referrals.
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